How TCW's doors were made
Hi - you may have already seen on the site some of
the doors that are used to finish cupboards etc. These vary tremendously in
size and shape from 15" x 12" bedroom cupboards to the 48" x
20" bath panel. In order to have a common look through the boat we decided
early on that it would be good if all the doors had the same style. As a result
we spent a few hours experimenting with what could be achieved using ash faced
mdf and a router. Once upon a time routers were expensive - these days they
are not - shop around and you can pick one up for about £20. A set of
tungsten carbide bits from B&Q are about £15. Have a look at the doors
in B&Q - you'll pay more than this for one door.
Having said this, woodwork may not be your cup of tea , but if you fancy a go, this is how TCWs doors are made:
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The work piece is then clamped into the jig - don't forget to put a piece of scrap wood between the clamp and the door to prevent the clamp marking it. |
Next an initial cut is made - I used a'V' cutter - this first cut is not to the full depth. Note the router is run along the batten - routers should always be used in the 'correct' direction otherwise they will pull away from the batten. |
Now the tricky bit - I found by experimenting that if I rolled the router through the corners it put a nice corner piece into the routing. The router I have, has a base which has two flat sides - you need this to do this trick - some have only one. The thing is to experiment and see what you can achieve |
Here we see that I've turned the first corner - you can just see the 'corner piece'
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Now we are on a roll. When turning the corners its essential to maintain a steady pressure into the corner so the router does not come away from the guide battens - I can post some pictures of ones that went wrong if anyone's interested! This is the reason I only do two corners at a time - walking round the workpiece seems to lead to mistakes! |
One end of the door done - don't forget, don't try and do the full depth of cut in one go (unless you are having a very shallow pattern). I find you can do it in two to three passes. Now you have to remove the door from the jig, turn it round, clamp it back in the jig and do the other end. |
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Clamp your door like this so you can run round three edges |
Next select your cutter to rout the edge - again, a little experimentation is worth it at this stage to get the look you like. |
Rout around the three edges and the turn the piece round to do the fourth. This kind of routing is easy after routing the panel - just take two or three passes and make sure your cutter is set to the right depth on the last one! Lastly, use a little fine sand paper to remove the 'feathers' left by the router |
If you are making kitchen doors you might want to fit standard unit hinges for which you need a 32mm diam hole in just the right place - Screwfix will sell you a cutter for £30 or if you are a scrooge like me, cut a hole in a scrap piece of 3mm ply and using the template follower that comes with a router cut the hole out to the right depth using a 5mm straight cutter. Make sure the hole is set at the right distance from the edge by attaching a small batten to your template which simply slides up to the edge of the door. |
One hole all ready for the hinge |
A perfect fit! |
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Good luck! Chris |